We left Osaka (population 2.5 million) early in the morning to head to our second Japanese destination, the decidedly smaller Koyasan (population 4 thousand). Koyasan is a small town perched on the Kii Peninsula, 4,000 feet above sea level. To get there, we took a series of subways, trains, a cable car, and a bus – taking us through some very diverse scenery, from the downtown hustle of Osaka to the very peaceful mountains near Koyasan. This also gave us our first opportunity to really use our Japanese Rail Pass, which would be our constant companion throughout our trip in Japan.
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| The Japanese Rail Pass - Stylish, no? |
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| A view of rural Japan from the train. |
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| More serene Japanese scenery. |
Our guide had warned us that it would be cold, and Koyasan did not disappoint. We arrived to see our breath mist in the early afternoon air, but understand that it is much colder back at home. After dropping off our bags at the monastery (more on that later), we headed into town for a quick bite to eat. We both tried a rice dish with chicken and egg, a dish where the egg is served without being fully cooked – the idea being that the extreme heat of the rice will cook the egg inside the served dish, leaving it fresh for the diner.
After lunch, we headed back to the monastery to prepare for this afternoon’s tour. Koyasan is known as Japan’s most worshiped Shingon Buddhist site, and hosts more than 1 million tourists each year. However, December is part of Koyasan’s slow season, and we had the monastery to ourselves. Apart from the monks, that is – the monastery we stayed at in Koyasan is an actual, working monastery complete with a temple, an onsen (a super-heated, public bath) and a full suite of tatami-floored, screened rooms.
When arriving at the temple, we were required to take off our shoes and exchange them for slippers that we would wear inside. Not everywhere, however – once we arrived at our room, we took off the slippers to enter, and wore socks or used bare feet inside. Except for the bathroom – where there is still another pair of slippers to wear – and only wear – inside the bathroom.
The rooms are sparsely finished, with only futon mattresses placed directly on the tatami floors. Tatami is a floor system comprised of squares of tightly-woven, braided straw. There was no carpet, but there was a special table in the front of the room where guests could tuck their feet underneath a heater. Erin spent plenty of time in front of that table during our stay.
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| A map of Koyasan, showing all the separate temples throughout the area. |
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| The entrance to one of Koyasan's temples. |
We left the monastery to explore Koyasan, specifically going to Oku-no-in, site of a very famous temple where Kobo Saishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism, is said to eternally meditate. The story, as we heard it, states that Saishi was a monk that went off in search of perfect mediation. Upon finding it, he continued to meditate without aging. His fellow monks sealed up his meditation cave to leave him in peace, and there Saishi will continue to meditate until the return of the Buddha.
Our guide also took the time to explaint the Buddhist water purification rite, which we thought was very similar to the muslim purification we had learned about in Egypt. We toured the primary temple grounds, stopping for a quick tea and biscuit with our tour guide before heading back into town.
We left the tour group and wandered through the cemetery near Oku-no-in, which looks like no cemetery either of us has ever seen. The graves date back centuries, and many look it – bedecked with moss and vines, showing a different side of the burial process. The pictures of Koyasan's religious sites certainly do speak a thousand words:
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| A water purification altar before one of the temples. |
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| The Konpon Daito, or "Great Stupa" built to demonstrate Shingon teachings. |
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| James poses before one of Koyasan's temples. |
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| The Oku-no-in Temple and part of its famous rock garden. |
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| Tabitha poses in front of the Konpon Daito |
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| A view of the Okuno-in Cemetery. |
After our cemetery visit, we returned to the monastery for dinner. To eat dinner or attend temple at the monastery, all guests are required to wear the provided kimono and cover shawl. So, we dressed up in our monastery finest, and headed down to our meal. First, there are no chairs at dinner – simply low cushions to sit cross-legged or to kneel upon. Second, the meal was served all at once, even though there were multiple courses. Finally, the Buddhist monks are vegetarian – thus, our entire meal, from imitation sushi to the soup – was all soy or other vegetable or fruit-based. It was quite good, and very filling.
After our group finished dinner, we headed out as a group to wander back through the cemetery at night, to see how many of the tombs are illuminated from within. We also heard more about how Shintoism and Buddhism are interrelated throughout Japanese culture, and how we could best differentiate between shrines (built to honor the "Kami," or "spirit" of the gods - each has a Torii gate, similar to those erected in Central Park for Christo's exhibit some years back) and buddhist temples (the absence of those markings, and usually an absence of the distinct orange color.
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| Our bedroom in the monestery - notice the warming table on the left, and the matresses directly on the tatami. |
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| Erin in full monk regalia, ready for dinner. |
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| This was the full meal we were served in the monestery - fully vegetarian. |
